Busy streets filled with traffic. The beeping of car horns. Pedestrians darting between gaps in traffic. Ramshackle shops selling warm crates of Coke or Sprite from dusty doorways. Resentful or indifferent eyes watching as you pass. Tangled power cables strung between the rooftops – some working, some not. Corrugated metal and flaking paint. The threat of a sniper or roadside bomb. Garish advertising hoardings pinned to walls. Dark brown streets of hardened dust. Intense heat. Old satellite dishes clinging to walls. The smell of waste and rubbish. The smell of fires. Basra. Iraq. 2006.